Since its first design in the 1950s by the iconic Coco Chanel, the classic flap bag from Chanel has become a symbol of luxury. However, it is challenging for an untrained individual to distinguish between genuine Chanel bags and fake bags.
Unfortunately, fake Chanel bag producers have managed to replicate many of the differentiating qualities of a real Chanel bag. Thus, it can be challenging to avoid the super fakes and to find a true vintage piece unless you buy an authentic bag straight from a Chanel boutique.
That is why we have come up with the ultimate guide to spotting a fake Chanel bag. Read on to find out how to authenticate a Chanel bag in 5 easy ways.
In A Rush? Here’s a Quick Checklist To Authenticate a Chanel Bag
- The date code on the serial number sticker has 7 or 8 digits.
- The gold speckles on the serial stickers are evenly spaced.
- There is an “X” mark on the serial number sticker.
- The CC logo has a flat-edge finish.
- The right C on the logo overlaps the left C on top, and the left C overlaps the right C at the bottom.
- The bag only has “Made in France” or “Made In Italy” stamps.
- The hardware works seamlessly and matches the color of the logo stamp.
- The bag has flat-head or star-shaped screws on the back of the lock.
- The stitching on the back pocket blends with the diamond quilting on the rest of the bag.
Read the telling signs of a real Chanel bag in detail below.
5 Ways To Differentiate Between a Real and Fake Chanel Bag
You can sometimes tell a Chanel bag is fake simply by the quality of the leather or the dust bag, the crooked logo, or the rigidness of the hardware.
However, without significant attention to detail, even a seasoned buyer may fall for the replicas. That said, if you carefully analyze the 5 differentiating points mentioned below, you can quickly distinguish between a fake and a genuine bag.
1. Inspect the Date/Serial Code and Authenticity Card
The serial number is the first thing one should look for when authenticating vintage Chanel bags. Chanel started using serial number stickers for their bags in 1984; bags made till 2004 have 7-digit date codes, and those made from 2005 have 8-digit numbers.
Count the number of digits; a 9-digit serial code is a dead giveaway of a fake. These date codes come with matching authentication cards.
Useful Tip: Beware of fake authenticity cards, as they can be easily replicated and do not guarantee the genuineness of your Chanel bag.
The location of the serial sticker can vary depending on the model of the bag; they can be found either on a leather tag or in the bag’s lining.
So, what should you look for in a genuine serial sticker? You should be able to find CC logo markings, evenly distributed gold specks, and an “X” shape cut out in authentic stickers.
However, these serial number stickers can detach from vintage Chanel bags upon usage. Similarly, authentication cards can sometimes be misplaced too. So, their absence does not mean your bag is necessarily fake.
Did You Know? Since 2021, Chanel has moved on from hologram stickers and started using a microchip with a serial number in a bid to protect their products from replication and allow easy authentication.
2. The CC Logo and Logo Stamps Are an Easy Giveaway
Many people think of the iconic CC lock when they think of an authentic Chanel bag.
Inspect the CC logo on the locks to work out whether it is a fake or real bag. Always ensure that the right C overlaps the left C on top and the left C overlaps the right C at the bottom.
Moreover, the turnstile lock should be centered on the flap, both vertically and horizontally. If the lock does not move smoothly, your bag may be fake.
Furthermore, vintage 2.55s sport a flat finish on the CC locks, whereas present-day designs have a more rounded finish. However, the edges are flat in all Chanel logos on authentic bags.
Interesting Fact: Chanel bags initially only had plain rectangular locks with no branding until Karl Lagerfeld designed the CC lock in the 1980s.
You can also look at the logo stamp to see all the letters in “CHANEL” are spaced equally and match the hardware color.
Some other points to note are:
- The C should have an open angle of 30 degrees.
- The upper part of the “H” should be smaller than the lower part.
- The upper corner on the “N” should be wider than the bottom corner.
- The stripes on the “E” should all be different sizes, with the middle being the smallest and the bottom being the longest.
Also, the “Made In” stamp will only feature France or Italy, not Paris. If you find a bag that has a “Made In Paris” stamp, it is an indication that the product is fake. However, the word “PARIS” is frequently embedded in real Chanel hardware.
3. Analyze the Stitch Count and Quality
Chanel is known for its high-quality products. The brand mostly uses luxurious lambskin leather or caviar skin which gives the famous bubbly appearance to Chanel bags.
Apart from examining the quality of the leather and lining, you should also look at the stitching.
Chanel bags boast expert craftsmanship, so most designs will feature 10 or more stitches per side on the diamond quilt. This prevents the leather from puffing. The stitches will all be meticulously done and of the same size.
Remember that some genuine Chanel bags may have less than 10 stitches per edge, but this is usually true for smaller designs.
4. Check the Hardware
Chanel bag hardware is challenging to replicate, with most replicas lacking the attention to detail that you find in genuine products. Once you know what you’re looking for in the hardware, you can easily separate counterfeit items.
The Chain Strap
When checking the authenticity of a Chanel bag, always examine the leather straps on the linked chain. The straps should be even with no bumps, and the stitches should be equal throughout.
The Zipper
The most recognized zippers used in authentic Chanel bags include the YKK, the DMC, the triple C in a circle and the Lampo. The Lampo zippers are often found on genuine Chanel bags from the late 70s and early 80s. They were also used by other brands such as Louis Vuitton and Gucci.
In addition, you will usually find the zipper branding on the zip pull. However, some vintage designs, like a Classic Chanel from the 27, will feature unbranded zippers.
The Screws
Chanel bags usually have flathead screws on the back of the lock, while more modern designs may also feature star-shaped screws. In contrast, you will never find an X-shaped screw on the bag’s lock.
5. Look Out for Stitching Symmetry
Stitching symmetry is another fine detail that most replicas fail to match. In a genuine Chanel bag, the diamond quilting on the back pocket will blend seamlessly with the quilting on the bag.
So make sure the quilting aligns, and you likely have an authentic Chanel piece.
In Conclusion: How to Authenticate a Chanel Bag
With our ultimate guide, you can quickly test out a Chanel bag in various ways to ensure that it is indeed the real deal. You’ll never fall for a counterfeit Chanel Bag again.
However, you can opt for a professional examination by an authentication service if you are still unsure. The quality and craftsmanship of genuine Chanel bags are worth the investment.
If you want to buy vintage designer goods, read our guide on what you should consider before taking the plunge.
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