The Fascinating Story of Ballynahinch Castle & the Indian Maharaja


Nestled in one of the most picturesque areas of West Ireland, you’ll find enchanting Ballynahinch Castle Hotel. Before becoming the luxurious hotel that it is today, it had an intriguing history worthy of a Hollywood movie.

First Impressions of Ballynahinch Castle

The journey to Ballynahinch is incredibly scenic. As you drive through the extensive grounds, you feel a mounting sense of excitement. The ivy-clad building may not have a moat or drawbridge but in every other aspect it’s a fairytale place. Knock on the door and you’re instantly given the warmest Irish welcome. Ballynahinch is the former home of Ranjitsinhji, Maharaja of Nawanagar, or Prince Ranji as he affectionately became known. Born in 1872, he was an accomplished cricketeer, batting for the English team. He was the first head of state to visit the Irish Free State and also loved fly fishing, so bought Ballynahinch to pursue his hobby. He never married or had children though he doted on his nephews and nieces and sent many of them to boarding school in Ireland. Some say that he was in love with an Irish girl, Edith Borrisow but in those times, interracial marriages were frowned upon.

Ballynahinch-Castle-AutumnAccommodation at Ballynahinch Castle

Our Riverside Suite was in the new part of the building at the far end, so extremely peaceful. There was a huge bedroom and a separate lounge, both with beautiful bay windows. The four poster bed was so romantic…

Ballynahinch Castle Riverside suiteAlthough the highlight could well be this view of the Salmon Lake!

ballynahinch_castle_lakeWe liked the luxurious bathroom with matching vanity units and plush towelling robes and slippers. The toiletries are by luxury Irish brand VOYA who specialize in organic seaweed products. There was a separate dressing room with ample space for all our belongings as well as a safe and ironing board.

ballynahinch_suite_bathroomLittle touches at Ballynahinch Castle

As a welcome gesture, there was a lovely watercolour card depicting Ballynahinch as well as homemade lemonade and tasty biscuits.

ballynahinch_amenitiesA wide array of Wellington boots and Barbour jackets are thoughtfully laid out in a corridor for guests to borrow.

boot_room_ballynahinch
There are several cosy lounges in which to relax, read the papers and curl up with a glass of wine.

ballynahinch_loungesGrounds of Ballynahinch Castle

The grounds are spread over 450 acres and well known for their great beauty. There’s a sizeable lake and boardwalks from which you get a great view of the castle.

ballynahinch_castle_luxury_columnistThis bridge has featured in quite a few films and it’s certainly a picturesque spot.

Ballynahinch-Castle-grounds
Connemara is known for its ponies and we came across this one on our walk.

west-ireland-pony
There are also many different types of flowers and wild mushrooms to spot.

ballynahinch_castle_floraActivities at Ballynahinch Castle

Ballynahinch makes a great base for touring the local area by car or bicycle. The Wild Atlantic Way is a stunning tourism trail through West Ireland that stretches for 2,500 kilometres. We had a really enjoyable bike ride with a local guide arranged by the hotel – luckily the hills are fairly gentle so it’s suitable for most abilities. Clifden Railway line is a disused rail track that makes for a picturesque walk around the grounds.

ballynahinch_castle_activitiesThe next day we set off on an Islands and Lobster Experience from the photogenic village of Roundstone with John. An experienced skipper, he’s also an accomplished fisherman who showed us how to cast our rods. Paul and I didn’t actually catch anything but we enjoyed John’s catch as a fish supper in the restaurant that evening. He took us to visit Inishlacken, a nearby island that’s largely deserted but where sheep are brought by boat to graze each day by Archie and his sheepdog.

ballynahinch_fishing_tripThe fly fishing at Ballynahinch is among the best in Ireland, with over 70 casting piers. Salmon and sea trout swim up the Ballynahinch River towards the Atlantic Ocean.

Ballynahinch-Castle-boat
We also tried our hand at clay pigeon shooting at the Connemara Shooting School within Ballynahinch’s grounds. I’ve done it before but despite Paul being a beginner, he was better than me. I was too distracted throwing sticks for our instructor’s charming dog 😉

clay_pigeon_shooting_irelandDining at Ballynahinch Castle

Guests have the choice of the fine dining Owenmore Restaurant or The Fisherman’s Pub, and both are also popular with locals. We savoured a delicious dinner in the restaurant and a lakeside view on the first evening. The staff were very friendly and advised us on the best wines to accompany our meal. As for the food, Ballynahinch’s head chef, Pete Durkan, favours seasonal, organic ingredients that are packed with flavour. We loved the delicate combination of flavours and also the art collection adorning the walls. We admired the paintings by Jack Yeats, Louis le Brocquy and Leo Whelan.

ballynahinch_restaurantWe dined in The Fisherman’s Pub one evening, tucking into a lovely steak and ale pie and fresh mussels. It was hard to tear ourselves away from the cosy open fire.

ballynahinch_pub_mealThe adjacent Ranji room, in homage to the illustrious former owner, is a comfy place for after dinner drinks.

the_ranji_roomAfternoon tea is also a Ballynahinch specialty, with the very freshest sandwiches, savouries, scones and sweet treats. The loose tea menu was designed with master tea blender Jorg Mueller of Solaris Tea who is based in Galway. He’s created a signature house tea blend using locally foraged herbs and juniper berries. It goes perfectly with the Irish soda bread, sourdough and walnut and treacle sandwiches as well as the macarons, berry tartlets, chocolate mousse and mini Pavlovas.

ballynahinch_teaYet breakfast could well be my favourite meal of the day here. We’ve rarely seen such a spread, with a superb gammon, a selection of cold cuts, cheeses, cereals and pastries. And of course the views over the lake are as superb as ever.

ballynahinch_breakfastFinal Thoughts on Ballynahinch Castle

With an unbeatable setting in stunning grounds, you can certainly see what drew the Maharaja here in the first place.

We particularly liked:

  • Superb local cuisine in harmony with the seasons
  • Warm Irish welcome
  • Wide range of activities for all ages and abilities in the huge estate and nearby

Ballynahinch Castle Hotel, Recess, Connemara, Co. Galway, Ireland

Ballynahinch-Castle-visit

  • Jessica Miller

    Wow! I traveled to Ireland and toured much of eastern, central and southern Ireland but never made it to Galway. I would love to see this beautiful and peaceful location! It looks gorgeous and reminds me of my home scenery here in Alaska! Thanks for sharing.

    My favorites were Glendolough, Newgrange, Kinsale and the Dingle Peninsula.

    • Ooh thanks for the tip, Jessica – I’ll check some of those out on our next trip to Ireland

  • The view is just spectacular

    Candice | Beauty Candy Loves

  • How fantastic to stay in a castle! You must have felt like a princess 🙂 The grounds are beautiful and the food looks wonderful, especially the mussels!

  • What a wonderful place with so many thoughtful touches. This is just what I imagine when I picture Ireland.

  • The grounds look gorgeous – I bet there are some fantastic hiking trails and how lovely to come across a pony. I must admit to being terrible at clay pigeon shooting – it’s a sport I’m much better observing! I do love a good afternoon tea and this one looks particularly delicious – what a lovely evening spent away from home!

    • I also find clay pigeon shooting quite hard, I can’t coordinate my intentions with my hand! The afternoon tea was so nice in front of the open fire

  • this place looks incredible, I love the horse photo
    xo
    http://www.laurajaneatelier.com

  • Ellie Adams

    Wow, this place is absolutely breathtaking. What a gorgeous, luxurious room and the grounds are so calming. Added to my bucket list!

    Elle
    http://www.theellenextdoor.com
    xx

  • Suze another amazing place! May I ask what time of the year did you visit?
    Wonderful photography as always!
    Love from https://tbymallano.com/

    • We visited in November, but I’m writing about it now as the hotel closed for a short while for renovations. It was surprisingly warm and a great time of the year to visit

  • What an amazing place, the scenery is so picturesque awash fall colors. And love the history of the place, staying in a castle would have felt like quite a treat.

  • The hotel and grounds look stunning – I love hotels with a little bit of history and how nice that there are so many fun activities too!

    Miriam
    http://www.londonkitchendiaries.com

    • We hardly scratched the surface of everything there is to do, Miriam but we had an amazing time!

  • this is a hotel? great! lovely fishing village nearby too:)